So my old 52" 4:3 aspect RCA suddenly won't turn on anymore. I'm thinking that it's not worth getting someone in to look at it - when a TV goes, it goes. Now I'm looking for suggestions for a replacement.
I've got a Dolby Digital system, and want a decent TV to watch movies on/play GameCube on. My couches are across the room from the TV; both the couches and the TV are pushed up against their respective walls. The walls are twelve feet apart. So what should I be looking for? DLP? LCD Projection? Plasma? Actual projector? I've been looking at resolutions as well. We don't have any high-definition sources at present, but it'd be nice to get a 720p-capable TV for the future.
I could probably spend up to $3,000 plus tax.
I have the best TV ever (it's the one I moved into my apartment with) it's 15", older and me and has amazing picture qualities (fuzzy, nostalgic, real "wood" shell, etc). No wait, I can't sell it, it's my little buddy never mind.
I once had a genuine yellow plastic black+grey TV. Twas older than I am.
You can find almost anything on the web these days. Like, for instance, the hidden location of the fuse that's probably blown inside the set. Except I'm not sure what type of fuse a 5G5A125 is. I assume a normal-blow 5 amp 125 volt (normal-blow as opposed to fast-blow and slow-blow).
So tomorrow will be spent finding a damnable fuse to see if that fixes my problem. Damn sight cheaper than a new TV!
To you have digital cable or just plain analog? I have noticed there is an extreme difference in how well many of the new Plasma and LCD sets handle Analog input.
The Samsung units seem to have the best analog to digital image, they are also rated very high for quality from digital input as well. This might be an issue if you still use regular cable or a VCR..
While I agree with the original statement having to do with TV's being really dead when they do go - for a TV that large I'd at least invest a little into finding out what went wrong before I give up on it. If it is that hidden fuse, you should be able to pull it out and tell if it died before you go searching for a replacement.
As for a new one, I would suggest front or rear projection, 16x9, HD capable. If you're playing games on it, keep in mind that plasma's are the worst for image burn-in, CRTs also burn-in but not as bad, LCD's are virtually immune, and DLP is completly immune to burn-in. There are also some new technologies around eg. LCOS (Liquid Crystal on Silicon - AKA SXRD by Sony) that really are very good, but still expensive and hard to find.
For a specific model recomendation - it's slightly over your price-point there, but I really like this HP md5800n I've got here. 58" rear-projection DLP, 1080p capable (though it will take anything else input and scale it too), retail at best-buy should be around $3200 + GST. And you're welcome to come check mine out if you think it will help the decision.
And if you need a good place for information - http://www.avsforum.com/ Whatever TV you pick you should be able to find an official owners thread for over there. Before you buy, skim some of the owners thread and you'll get a quick idea of common problems with the set, as well as if it has any diy fixes for them.
I think I'm going to wait for a SED (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-conduction_Electron-emitter_Display) TV.
Thanks, Cova.
It ain't the fuse, I ran all over town trying to find a 5G 5 amp 125 volt fuse (that's 5mmx20mm, not the typical AGC or AGX size of barrel fuse you can find almost anywhere). Finally found one, put it in, didn't work, got a little jolt because I forgot to unplug the power cord, felt stupid, etc.
Wife's gonna call a technician to come and look at it and hopefully it costs less to fix than to replace. Damn cash crunch :(
Hmm, after looking at a few TVs online and then checking them out on www.avsforums.com, I think I'll be going with a Hitachi 51F59 (http://www.hitachi.ca/Apps/hitachicanada/content.jsp?page=forhome/hdtv_projection/details/51F59.html&path=jsp/hcl/hcl/en/) for sale at The Brick. Good old 51" rear-projection CRT tv, for only $1600. That's a lot cheaper than what I was expecting to pay for a TV of this size. 1080i. Hmm, well, I don't have any HD signals in my house, so that doesn't make a difference to me at all at present. It upscales 720p to 1080i, I think. But still, I'll be watching regular 240 lines of horizontal from regular cable most of the time. Or, I should say, my kids will.
One thing's for sure, I've got a dead 13" CRT RCA (lasted 7 years), a dead RCA DVD player (lasted 2 years), and a dead 52" RCA (lasted 4.5 years). I'm not buying RCA anymore.
AVS Forums had a good long thread about this TV here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=677069 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=677069)
Oh, and I consider the user manual (http://www.hitachi.ca/supportingdocs/en/forhome/hdtv_projection/51F59.pdf) for this Hitachi top-notch. No noticeable grammar errors, nicely formatted, and they use real frickin' pictures when showing you exactly how to take the top of the bottom. Real pictures! Any of you that might need to write a user manual, I refer you to this one to get an idea of how to write an easy-to-read manual - even though it has lots of technical information, like how to hook up all six inputs.
The Hitachi you're looking at weights a 150 pounds :o How does that compare in weight to a DLP?
I warn you now...
My parents have a 60" Phillips CRT Rear Projection TV, They had it for 1 year... then they had to have all 3 electron guns replaced as well as a new screen. The screen was there fault you cannot leave the TV on 4:3 mode for long periods of time. If you do it will burn the phosphorous on the screen. The 3 guns RGB all started dieing at the same time. They watch quite a bit of TV and play XBOX (yea they play 1 game Tiger Woods Golf) anyways they play that game a lot and apparently that burns out the guns quicker then regular TV because its more "enhanced" colors.
So they had 2 year warranty at Futureshop but they said it was from mis-use, anyways they got the TV fixed and now watch it in automatic mode so it stretches the screen appropriately. This TV does have HD but they haven't got to that point yet.
Just a genital warning about CRT Projection TV's... if your budget is 1500 and you want a good larger TV go for a DLP or LCD it might be smaller but well worth the money spent.
Yeah, Phillips is a horrible brand name for TVs. Low quality parts, absolutely horrible customer service.
I do understand the risks associated with CRTs. Then again, LCDs have ghosting and bad black/white levels and dead pixels, and DLPs have expensive bulbs, rainbow effects, and a high initial price tag. So really, the best TV to get would be a regular tube TV (euphemistically called a "Direct View" TV). 32" is about $600 to $700, these days.
Anyway, I've compared the prices on LCDs, DLPs, and CRTs, and CRTs are still by far the cheapest for the size. Given that all three technologies can rack up a significant repair bill, why pay more than I have to? Or get a smaller screen than I have to?
Quote from: Adams on June 07, 2006, 12:15:05 PMJust a genital warning
Err, you meant "general", right? I don't think I want to know what was on your mind while you were writing this post :P
I know when I was shopping for my TV, Hitachi's were the top rated in CRT bare none. Picture was far superior to any other CRT I looked at. In the end I was scared off of the negatives of CRT (mostly they are very very bad for burn in). But, if you're going that route I would strongly suggest Hitachi.
I would advise thought that you make sure to switch the TV off when ever your not watching. And probably the most annoying depending on how you look at it make sure you stretch all 4:3 TV, cause those black bars on the sides can actually burn into the screen...
It's not so much that the black bars "burn in" on CRT TV's - whats actually happening is kinda the opposite, though it's still a bad thing. The phosphors black area's on the screen when letter/pillarboxing get less use and stay new and bright while the rest of the screen slowly looses brightness/contrast. So that when you do watch something that uses that screen area, the picture on that part of the screen is much brighter than the rest of the picture.
Anyways - that hitachi looks like a decent unit. Since most broadcast HDTV comes over at 1080i when you do get hooked up you won't have to scale the image to fit a 720p display (which you'd end up with with LCD or DLP in that $1500ish price range), same benefit if you get a HD-DVD or blue-ray player which will have content at 1080p.
Yeah, but Adams was using the term "burn-in", so I thought I'd just go with the flow rather than define the term properly.
The Hitachi has a setting to make those bars black (completely unused) or grey (half-power) - grey is the default. That will help with burn-in. Last but not least, it can do some neat picture-in-picture things. For instance, instead of one picture small inside the other, it puts the signals side by side on the screen. Great for watching a hockey game while playing GameCube :)
Besides stretch, you can also do 4:3 zoom, where instead of stretching the picture sideways, the picture is left at 4:3 resolution but is zoomed in so that a little gets cut off the top and bottom. This is usually alright for typical TV shows, as most TV shows are shot in such a way that the most important thing to the story is near the center.
Can you tell I read the manual start to finish? :)
Quote from: Thorin on June 07, 2006, 01:44:05 PM
Quote from: Adams on June 07, 2006, 12:15:05 PMJust a genital warning
Err, you meant "general", right? I don't think I want to know what was on your mind while you were writing this post :P
Gentle or Genitalia or General dunno... maybe a bit of all. :D
Sounds like some neato features. :D
I gots me a LCD 32" and its pretty cool. But side by side would be cooler.
Quick note here, I bought my 46" Toshiba DLP around October last year. In december the bulb blew on it and was replaced under warentee (all lightbulbs have a one year), things have been smooth since.
At the beginning of the May Toshbia sent me a letter saying that DLP TVs within X and X serial and X and X date were given lightbulbs that didnt meet the expected logetivity that that I had already replaced mine. Further down they say that I now have one of the new bulbs and should expect the estimated 5000 hours of life. To make things sweeter, for my troubles they sent me a brand new lightbulb of the new variety totally free. So now i have a spare sitting in my storage room waiting for that fateful day a couple years from now.
Toshiba has A++ service in my opinion. I would expect most companies would not even come close to this kind of service.
Toshiba's on my list of recommended manufacturers for electronics ever since I used my first Toshiba laptop. Damn sturdy, great service (even for out-of-warranty goods), and *knowledgable local techs*. That was over ten years ago, even.
Another example of excellent service is Memory Express. They seem to have figured out the secret to long-lived sales. Now if only the Fords and DaimlerChryslers of the world could figure it out!
My next TV will be a DLP. Probably 52". However im waiting for the next gen 1080p models, that way i can be bent over the table when the movie industry starts to re-release all my favorite movies in HD =P Im also waiting for the next gen light engines which have significantly improved reducing the rainbow effect. Basically redesigned the color wheel and doubled its rpm.
I've been watching Samsung very closely since i really like their DLP line. However i haven?t counted Toboshiba out yet. Even got an old work "alumni" friend who is now the northern Alberta sales rep for Toboshiba. Gets 40% off MSRP for all toboshiba products.
Although i do have a 27" LCD i love as well... Time will tell, I?m in no hurry at the moment. I really want to get the Shaw HD PVR first.
So when are these next-gen DLPs expected to arrive? We're down to just one Direct-View TV (tube tv) at a mere 27" :o Don't know how long we can last just using that (funny how we used it for years before the big-screen).
So I got the TV fixed a month after it stopped working back in 2006, and now almost two years later it's borked again.
<sigh>
RCA sucks.
And now I'm thinking of a 50" Samsung plasma for $1,399 (or less if they'll haggle): http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0926HDS0010099752&catid=23249. Amazing how the prices have dropped in half over two years.
I'm halfway through the manual already.
Ya the prices have fallen, the walmart here has a Samsung 42" model similar to the one I have for only $997 now. However since I have recently had some issues with mine I do not recommend it.
Quote from: Thorin on July 26, 2008, 05:37:56 PM
So I got the TV fixed a month after it stopped working back in 2006, and now almost two years later it's borked again.
<sigh>
RCA sucks.
QFT!
Quote from: Lazybones on July 26, 2008, 08:17:49 PM
Ya the prices have fallen, the walmart here has a Samsung 42" model similar to the one I have for only $997 now. However since I have recently had some issues with mine I do not recommend it.
What was your model, again? LCD or plasma?
Quote from: Darren Dirt on July 26, 2008, 10:57:08 PM
Quote from: Thorin on July 26, 2008, 05:37:56 PM
So I got the TV fixed a month after it stopped working back in 2006, and now almost two years later it's borked again.
<sigh>
RCA sucks.
QFT!
WTF?
Seriously, you use weird acronyms that others don't know. Either you're saying, "Quoted For Truth", or, "Quit @%&#ing Talking". Very different meanings.
I think I'm going to start a grassroots petition on the Internet to
start using whole words again. Seriously. How much work is it to type a word out?
Quote from: Thorin on July 27, 2008, 11:49:21 AM
Quote from: Darren Dirt on July 26, 2008, 10:57:08 PM
Quote from: Thorin on July 26, 2008, 05:37:56 PM
RCA sucks.
QFT!
WTF?
Seriously, you use weird acronyms that others don't know. Either you're saying, "Quoted For Truth (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=QFT)"
sorry. and hey, TLAs are "cool" ;)
Was just saying I agree with the "RCA sucks" statement, as I have had a couple of their bad TVs, both I believe due to crappy power supplies or something (too long ago to remember).
I'm actually looking at getting a new TV (gasp!).
I figure I'll have enough saved up in a few months to buy one cash, the trick is finding the right combination of features. I did a bunch of research about six months ago, but prices and technology has changed since then (to the point where I have to go hunting around again).
I'm leaning toward plasma at the moment, but only because it seems to be a bit cheaper without sacrificing quality.
Quote from: Mr. Analog on July 28, 2008, 11:57:30 AM
I'm actually looking at getting a new TV (gasp!).
I figure I'll have enough saved up in a few months to buy one cash, the trick is finding the right combination of features. I did a bunch of research about six months ago, but prices and technology has changed since then (to the point where I have to go hunting around again).
I'm leaning toward plasma at the moment, but only because it seems to be a bit cheaper without sacrificing quality.
The only problem seems to be the short lifespan and the excess heat generated by plasmas.
Quote from: Tom on July 28, 2008, 06:23:38 PM
Quote from: Mr. Analog on July 28, 2008, 11:57:30 AM
I'm actually looking at getting a new TV (gasp!).
I figure I'll have enough saved up in a few months to buy one cash, the trick is finding the right combination of features. I did a bunch of research about six months ago, but prices and technology has changed since then (to the point where I have to go hunting around again).
I'm leaning toward plasma at the moment, but only because it seems to be a bit cheaper without sacrificing quality.
The only problem seems to be the short lifespan and the excess heat generated by plasmas.
True, the search has only begun.
plasma is bad for gaming. Image retention is bad as well. Go LCD.
Okay, so I ended up getting a TV.
I got what I posted earlier, a Samsung PN50A450. It's a 50" plasma 720p, with 3 HDMI inputs, 2 component inputs, and two composite inputs (one of the component inputs functions as either component or composite depending on what you plugged in).
I also bought a high-quality stand that the TV is permanently attached to, because I could already see one of the kids bouncing into the TV and watching it fall down in slow motion.
Last but not least, I bought component cables for the Wii and the DVD player.
I paid $1,400 for the TV, $400 for the stand, $250 for the service plan (down from $400, the only thing they'd haggle on), $40 for the component Wii cable, $47 for the component cable for the DVD player, $45 recycling fee ("ADS") and tax. Total was $2,291.xx.
First Impressions:
Last night, after setting up the stand (two bent shelf frames - new ones are already on their way from the manufacturer) and attaching the TV, I hooked up the cable.
Regular channels look okay, although I waffled between watching them in 4:3 or 16:9 mode. Some shows (Battlestar Galactica, Generation Kill) have been filmed in a format that on 4:3 shows black bands on the top and bottom. These shows I could watch in Zoom 1 mode and see the entire picture with no black bands.
Today when I got home, my son hooked up the Wii component cable, changed the settings in the Wii (16:9 screen size and EDTV/HDTV 480p output). The wife, the kids, and I all agree that things are much clearer, sharper, and brighter. For instance, in Blazing Angels we could now tell the difference between the sky and ocean (important when trying to decide whether to peel off or keep going straight!). Blazing Angels wasn't meant for high def of any sort, though - at least not on the Wii. Mario & Sonic At The Olympics was a better indicator of how much better the picture looked.
In the next couple of days I'll try hooking up the DVD player and see what DVDs look like. I don't have an upscaling DVD player, so it won't be as nice as an HD-DVD or Blu-ray would look, but I'm all tapped out for money now so I won't be getting them anytime soon.
Now a word about the salesman that helped me at Futureshop. I was surprised at how much he actually knew about the TV and typical hookups. He even managed to be more technically correct about our cable box than I was! (I stated that our cable box was standard def and that it didn't have a high def signal, he explained to my wife that although it was officially digital because it received the broadcasts using digital technology, it sent out the signal to the TV as standard def). He also knew exactly what hookups and how many were on the back of the TV even though they've got 40+ models on display there, and he knew the difference between composite and component without having to ask how many plugs or anything.
I went for the cheapest 50" TV I could get (was replacing an old 52"). Basically it still cost me $2,300, though. However, I'm happy with how it looks and fits into the living room. If the old TV hadn't died, though, I wouldn't have bought anything new.
Oh, and an interesting tidbit about Samsung's plasmas. Samsung warrants all their TVs for 1 year parts and labour, except the plasmas which are warranted for 2 years parts and labour. Either they're trying to build a reputation, or their own research has shown their plasmas to be more reliable.
Quote from: Lazybones on July 28, 2008, 06:58:08 PM
plasma is bad for gaming. Image retention is bad as well. Go LCD.
I haven't noticed any image retention yet and the TV has had about 10 hours of use so far, including gaming. And this TV was $800 less than a comparable LCD and is pretty well-liked on AVS Forum from what I've read.
Quote from: Lazybones on July 28, 2008, 06:58:08 PM
plasma is bad for gaming. Image retention is bad as well. Go LCD.
I've heard that too, what I'm worried about with LCD is dead (or even worse, lit) pixels.
Quote from: Thorin on July 28, 2008, 08:41:34 PM
Quote from: Lazybones on July 28, 2008, 06:58:08 PM
plasma is bad for gaming. Image retention is bad as well. Go LCD.
I haven't noticed any image retention yet and the TV has had about 10 hours of use so far, including gaming. And this TV was $800 less than a comparable LCD and is pretty well-liked on AVS Forum from what I've read.
May take about a month before you notice anything.
If you watch lots of Standard def TV with the black bars you may notice that on HD content the areas where the bars where will be brighter from getting less use.
Also Raeofsunshine had a Paper Mario marathon on the TV when it was new and the score indicator was visible for a while after.. The white wash feature cleared most of this up but it is a pain and a waste of power to run it over night.
I've got a friend with last year's Samsung plasma, a 42", and plays quite a bit of video games on there. He hasn't noticed any image retention. As far as HD content, well, he mostly watches HD but even then most signals from the HD cable box still have some black top and bottom. And even there, when he switches to a full-screen game he doesn't notice extra brightness. He's had the TV since September 07, so that first month has gone by.
So what do you have, LCD or Plasma? (I remember asking that before in this thread)
I have a CRT thats as old as ME! Rae and Lazy have a 42" Samsung Plasma.
Yay for my DLP! May the technology survive the grave (at least the rumours of it dying out)!
Quote from: Melbosa on July 30, 2008, 11:58:36 AM
Yay for my DLP! May the technology survive the grave (at least the rumours of it dying out)!
Most places are closing their plants.. But I think at least one manufacturer is increasing capacity, but I can't recall for sure.
Quote from: Thorin on July 30, 2008, 11:10:50 AM
I've got a friend with last year's Samsung plasma, a 42", and plays quite a bit of video games on there. He hasn't noticed any image retention. As far as HD content, well, he mostly watches HD but even then most signals from the HD cable box still have some black top and bottom. And even there, when he switches to a full-screen game he doesn't notice extra brightness. He's had the TV since September 07, so that first month has gone by.
So what do you have, LCD or Plasma? (I remember asking that before in this thread)
My Plasma details (http://forums.righteouswrath.com/index.php/topic,4642.0.html)
If there are black bars on the top and bottom but not also on the sides for regular tv your friend is running in stretched mode all the time. This would mean more content would not have bars but it also means all SD content would be stretched and distorted. I always watch in a 1:1 ratio for the content.
------------------
I hate sharing a PC with one login... This was posted by Lazybones.
He watches pretty much only HD when it comes to TV. The advertisements get stretched, but the regular programs are being broadcast in widescreen format.
Thanks for finding the link to your old TV thread.
Now... Why are you in as Rae?
Quote from: Thorin on July 30, 2008, 01:22:37 PM
He watches pretty much only HD when it comes to TV. The advertisements get stretched, but the regular programs are being broadcast in widescreen format.
Thanks for finding the link to your old TV thread.
Now... Why are you in as Rae?
We are sharing a laptop with only one login.