Subwoofer recommendations

[Ustauk]

My polky Polk Audio subwoofer bit the dust, and I think its past its warranty date.  Does anyone have any recommendations for a good sub.  I currently have 100w pioneer bookshelf speakers in a 5 speaker setup.  Incidentally, I have a dead sub to give away if someone is good at reviving such things

[Mr. Analog]

You know who I blame? The Polkaroo!

[Melbosa]

I personally recommend the following for home subs, but is more expensive, although the sound quality is by far the best.



2 Car Subs - 10"

2 Single Enclosure car boxes

1 Secondary AMP/Receiver to power the Subs

1 Y RCA Splitter

3 RCA Cables

Speaker wire, far enough to run to either side of your primary seating area



You use the Sub out on your receiver with 1 RCA Cable, to the Y Splitter, then 2 RCA Cables to the left and right ins on one of the inputs on your secondary reciever/amp.  Then run Speaker wire to the 2 boxes with the car subs, positioned on both sides of your primary seating area - do not position them near your TV, as they are not magnetically insulated and will cause a polarization of your TV Tube.



The audio quality is unbeatable by house sub standards.  Added bonus is that you have a magnatude (depending on your secondary receiver/amp) of choices for the sound variations on your sub channel, including - but not limited to - a secondary audio volume level - which is usually a lot larger varient than the sub audio DB adjustment that most receivers have on their sub out channel.

[Mr. Analog]

2 Car Subs - 10"

Yes, you will need much insulation with this setup.

[Ustauk]

I personally recommend the following for home subs, but is more expensive, although the sound quality is by far the best.



2 Car Subs - 10"

2 Single Enclosure car boxes

1 Secondary AMP/Receiver to power the Subs

1 Y RCA Splitter

3 RCA Cables

Speaker wire, far enough to run to either side of your primary seating area



You use the Sub out on your receiver with 1 RCA Cable, to the Y Splitter, then 2 RCA Cables to the left and right ins on one of the inputs on your secondary reciever/amp.  Then run Speaker wire to the 2 boxes with the car subs, positioned on both sides of your primary seating area - do not position them near your TV, as they are not magnetically insulated and will cause a polarization of your TV Tube.



The audio quality is unbeatable by house sub standards.  Added bonus is that you have a magnatude (depending on your secondary receiver/amp) of choices for the sound variations on your sub channel, including - but not limited to - a secondary audio volume level - which is usually a lot larger varient than the sub audio DB adjustment that most receivers have on their sub out channel.

Umm, that sounds cool, but I'm afraid that sounds a bit too complicated from me.  Maybe when I buy a house or something down the line.

[Lazybones]

Energy tends to be a good brand for home audio speakers.



Nuaunce is a total cash grab if you ever get presured by a sales droid run away.

[Mr. Analog]

It also depends on the kind of money you want to spend, Klipsch is good, but tends on the higher end of the stick.

[Mr. Analog]

Ya might want to check out SVS, I've heard nothing but good things about them, basically they started out as a bunch of audio geeks and ended up becoming a brand name. For what you get they are affordable.



http://www.svsubwoofers.com/

[Thorin]

2 Car Subs - 10"

If you're going this route, keep in mind that speakers come in different impedance ratings, and amplifiers have minimum impedances they can support.  Typical car subs have 4 Ohm impedance rating, while typical house stereos require 8 Ohms minimum impedance per channel.  There are, of course, 8 Ohm car subs, and house stereos that support 4 Ohm loads, but you have to actually look for them.



Some other things to consider with car subs:

- car enclosures are generally carpeted in a neutral grey to blend in with the trunk carpeting; this doesn't look nearly as nice as a well-finished wooden house sub box

- car enclosures are typically trapezoidal rather than square, as they are normally built to wedge against your back seat

- generic car subs and generic car enclosures are not specifically engineered for each other; house subs and their enclosures are typically specifically engineered for each other



Given your current set-up and living room size, I'd say look for a 10" powered sub with 100 to 150 watts.  Look for level and cross-over adjustment knobs on the back so you can finetune how boomy your sub is.



I like downfiring subs because I have kids and it's almost impossible for them to break the cone or put things in the port, and also they look better, to me (I think music that just magically appears in the room is better than looking at a bunch of speaker arrays).



As for brand names?  I can't even remember what I bought three years ago.  It's given me no troubles, so there's been no need to look it up.  Don't bother with Sony subs.  Pioneer might be alright, although probably pricey.  Klipsch is a name I've heard before, and Energy (although I've never heard their subs).

[Melbosa]

2 Car Subs - 10"

If you're going this route, keep in mind that speakers come in different impedance ratings, and amplifiers have minimum impedances they can support.  Typical car subs have 4 Ohm impedance rating, while typical house stereos require 8 Ohms minimum impedance per channel.  There are, of course, 8 Ohm car subs, and house stereos that support 4 Ohm loads, but you have to actually look for them.



Some other things to consider with car subs:

- car enclosures are generally carpeted in a neutral grey to blend in with the trunk carpeting; this doesn't look nearly as nice as a well-finished wooden house sub box

- car enclosures are typically trapezoidal rather than square, as they are normally built to wedge against your back seat

- generic car subs and generic car enclosures are not specifically engineered for each other; house subs and their enclosures are typically specifically engineered for each other

This is all true. Your describing my setup completely .



The impedance though usually applies - when talking what you hear - to the range of the varient in sound waves - therefore if you pump too much power through a lower impedence, your speaker "pops"; conversly if you pump too much power through a higher impedence your speakers distort.  This is why the DB level in Cars are usually much higher than those in the House, plus your car speakers are ususally rated at a higher amperage. Now Car subs also are rated with a high and low OHMs level, as if you run them in series or parallel - or if you are like me and use DVCs and pump through both sides - you can drop the impedence down even lower, allowing more sound through them at the same amperage.



Base sound levels, specifically the sub channel of most movies, aren't really affected by this unless you are trying to over-power your subs - 400 watts to a 300 watt sub.  Most house systems, if talking primarily the receivers with the built in sub speaker out - not the preout - typically only do 75-150 watts.  Most home power subs, in the average consumer bracket, are between 100-200 watts.  For the same price, you can usually get a 400-500 watts worth of a car sub and a $50 old receiver to power them.



I'm not trying to convince you though.  I know my solution is the more expensive and more to setup.  Just when I had mine setup (my sub speakers were always hidden by the coffee tables and couches, and already had the subs and single enclosure boxes) when we compared my "theatre" experience to those of friends - including peeps with a full Nuaunce, Energy and Bose systems - my 2 Pioneer towers, 2 pioneer rear mids, Energy centre, and 2 car subs for base; far out classed all in the end.  Of course, I must admit, my receiver was on average a higher model than those compared to.

[Thorin]

Forgot to mention Infinity and JBL, other brands I've heard good things about.



Also, when you're looking for your sub look for the response frequencies.  The lower the lowest response frequency, the more interesting sounds you'll hear that you would never hear over your TV speakers.



And I can't seem to find any downfiring subwoofers to give sample links

[Melbosa]

Infinity has actually taken a hit in the past couple of years.  Despite Ustauk's experience, Polk Audio has over taken them in the market.



Yeah I feel your pain about links.  The audio scene is so subjective that most reviews just conflict with eachother.  If I didn't have my sources (a couple of peeps from highschool work for various music component manufaturers in the industry), I would be as lost at finding out.



I still find Pioneer isn't bad for the $$$ involved.  Not the best in the biz, but good bang for your buck.

[Ustauk]

Has Polk Audio gotten any better?  I can get a 10" sub for $225 and 12" sub  for either $275 or $375 (can't quite remember which the fellow said) through a company that deals with my workplace.  The reviews on the Futureshop site  of the 10" were positive.  I think the frying of the sub may be partly my fault.  Sometimes it would start humming for no reason.  I would flick the cable, and it would stop.  I don't know how many times this happened when I wasn't around, so this could have led to its premature demise.

[Melbosa]

In the medium range of speakers (although I believe Polk has a new highend line), they are rated decent.  Not the most power or sound, but a decent buy.  I know my buddy Squatch (name used to protect the innocent) has his whole system running Polk, and its only over 1 or 2 old.  Sounds good

[Cova]

Need an example of a down-firing sub?  Come see my living room



I'm really quite happy with my setup, picked up a receiver and 6.1 speaker kit a while back (no, the receiver wasn't part of the speaker package - 2 lines on receipt), and the only thing that I'm not 100% happy with is that the volume drops off very quickly as you move away from the living room, but some people might consider that a good thing (I tend to like to turn up the receiver so I can listen anywhere in the house or yard - I can't leave the house and hear much of anything though with this setup).  All Harmon-Kardon, receiver and speakers.